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How to choose an anchor: base material, load and installation

Most anchor failures come from the wrong anchor for the base material or from poor installation, not from the anchor itself. Use these steps to get both right.

Step 1: know the base material

  • Concrete: the most common base. Decide whether it may be cracked (tension zones of beams and slabs, where hairline cracks open under load) or non-cracked. Anchors approved for cracked concrete are needed in most structural and safety-related fixings.
  • Solid masonry (brick, solid block): lower strength, so loads are smaller and expansion forces must be gentle.
  • Hollow block and perforated brick: expansion anchors grip poorly; use injection anchors with mesh sleeves or long frame fixings.
  • Old or unknown concrete: test it. Site pull-out tests show what the actual material can carry.

Step 2: know the load

Note the size and direction of the load (tension, shear or both), whether it is static or dynamic, and whether seismic or fire performance is needed. Sustained tension on overhead fixings and safety-critical items need approved anchors and a design calculation.

Step 3: choose the anchor type

TypeWorks byBest for
Wedge / bolt anchorExpansion clip at the tip, set by torqueSteel base plates, brackets and machinery in concrete; push-through installation
Sleeve anchorFull-length sleeve expandsMedium loads in concrete and solid masonry
Drop-in anchorInternal cone, set with a setting tool; flushThreaded rod hangers for pipes, ducts and cable trays in slabs
Frame fixingLong plastic plug with screwWindow and door frames, light fixings in masonry
Chemical (bonded) anchorResin bonds a rod to the hole wall; no expansion forceHigh loads, close edge and spacing distances, hollow materials with sleeves, post-installed rebar

Step 4: check edges, spacing and embedment

Every anchor needs a minimum edge distance, spacing and member thickness, and its capacity rises with embedment depth. Too close to an edge, and the concrete breaks out before the anchor reaches its load. Bonded anchors, which put no expansion force into the concrete, usually allow closer edges and spacing than expansion anchors.

Step 5: look for approvals

For structural and safety-related fixings, use anchors with a European Technical Assessment (ETA) for the use you need (cracked concrete, seismic category, fire), designed to EN 1992-4. The ETA gives the tested capacities, drill sizes, torques and minimum distances. Corrosion matters too: use zinc-plated anchors indoors and dry, hot-dip galvanised or A4 stainless anchors outdoors and in damp or coastal areas.

Step 6: install it correctly

  1. Drill the specified diameter and depth, normally with a hammer drill. Use diamond core drilling only where the approval allows it.
  2. Clean the hole: blow, brush, blow. Dust left in the hole can cut the capacity of a chemical anchor dramatically.
  3. Set the anchor: torque expansion anchors to the stated value with a calibrated wrench; for chemical anchors, inject from the bottom of the hole and respect the gel and cure times for the temperature.
  4. Verify with site pull-out tests where the base material is uncertain or the project specification asks for it.
We select, install and test. As Fischer stockists, our team offers anchor selection, design support, installation, rebar anchoring, chemical grouting and on-site pull-out testing with a report. See our services.

Figures are typical values for guidance. For design, inspection and purchase, always follow the current edition of the standard on your drawing.

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